However, I now have a new problem I can't seem to fix. Most electric lawn mowers, regardless of model, can be troubleshooted in the same way--by process of elimination. It is a 12/39 (12hp/39"? So figured likely not the starter. Mower blows fuses. If you order, tell her I sent you! But what would cause the fuse to blow after I switched solenoids, other than the possibility that it was a bad solenoid after all? Wiring and circuitry can be especially confusing to the average person, and even defies comprehension to some people, so it is very important to get in the habit of calling a wire (or circuit) by its proper given name. The do's and don'ts are so critical and I'm anxious to be armed with any I am unaware of so I don't blow up the mower...or myself! Ok, years later (!! Four-Stroke Engines Used on Other Equipment. If your John Deere L110 lawn tractor won’t start or if it tries to start but repeatedly blows fuses, the problem is likely a faulty starter or starter wires. If fuse is still good, turn the ignition switch to the HEADLIGHT-ON/RUN position and leave the switch in that position for a period of 15 or 20 seconds. ), I have a new thing to add. SO...did actually find a solenoid that is said to be equivalent to the original solenoid (NOMA 53716) and looks like the one in the manual, and while I am waiting for that to arrive, wondering if there is anything else that could have caused the replacement solenoid to melt down, other than repeated short cranking intervals and a hard-to-turn engine, or could it be the battery? Checked the fuse between ig. Have to put a 15 Amp in (which I don't like to have to do) its place to get the mower to at least start back up.Have checked all connections. On top of the block between the cylinders is a crankcase cover, held down by two bolts. I know this is a very long post and apologize for that but am also aware thru reading a lot of other posts trying to find a solution that any number of things could be a part of the problem...mainly just want to get the electrical circuit fixed to see if indeed the starter does need replacing, or if it is an engine valve or crankshaft problem....or battery! It carries current to engage the solenoid when the ignition switch is operated in the START position. This troubleshooting guide applies to gasoline lawn mower engines, but it's equally valid for small four-stroke engines used on yard equipment such as portable generators, air compressors, welders, pumps, cultivators (e.g. ***"not necessary to disconnect both cables when working on electrical, just the negative/black? I wouldnât let it drop too far down so you donât block the view of the TV. Starter kicked in and turned over the engine and started right up, fuse good. All starter solenoids have two large posts, side by side or on opposite sides of the solenoid and it makes absolutely no difference which large cable is connected to which post as it is simply a straight thru connection. When installing a battery, connect the hot cable first, connect the ground cable last. Then this spring, after replacing the battery and charging it up, started fine and was mowing, all of a sudden ran into fuel feed problems; would start and run for about 5-10 seconds then die. When you put a "metallic tool" onto the ground terminal, it will not "short" or "arc" if you accidently touch an adjacint metal part of the machine (because the machine chassis is also "negative" or ground). Nightfall, will change the solenoid sometime this weekend unless you have any other suggestions before I do that. I just replaced the started hoping that was the reason that it wouldn't start. I wish I still had my dad around because he was a nuclear physicist (whew) and dabbled in all things electronic (as in 1950's-60's electronics), so would have been a good consultant for the electrical probs; he always had all the essential electrical testing equipment handy...if this goes beyond the obvious connections and wire/lug condition issues, might have to have my mom send me his volt/ohm multimeter, which I am sure he has and SHE does not use, lol (she's a girl, ref to another thread...;) ). The 30amp fuse between the solenoid and ignition switch keeps blowing when I try to start it. If you would like to see that wiring diagram...might look into seeing if I can find the manual online but I think it is too old. Check the fuse to see if it has "blown". There will be some fuses on the riding mower. This is also how it is shown in the owner's manual electrical configuration diagrams. Would a loose connection somewhere cause it to blow? Based on your symptom and details you likely have a wire shorted to chassis ground or a shorted "after fire solenoid" or a shorted "clutch/brake switch" or "attachment clutch switch". So, you'll need to test using the revised instructions and then report your results. How many BIG terminals or posts on the solenoid? Initially, I changed the Solenoid, PTO … Did not get your last post before I had gone ahead and replaced the old solenoid with the new one (which I had ordered before even posting this thread); GOOD NEWS! "***UNlikely, but time will tell. Once you have the solenoid resting on the non-metallic material, reconnect the ground cable to the battery negative post. Most often, the cause of a blown fuse in a riding lawn mower is a short circuit, which happens when a damaged wire or failed component lets electrical current flow to the metal frame of the mower through an unintended path. The brake interlock switch is a safety device that won't let a riding lawn mower start if the brake isn't on. One must be very careful to "reference" things by the specific and correct "nomenclature" (whenever possible). Full Cuttings Bag. Ok, this is exactly the configuration on my Huskee as well, with the exception of the fuse, which is 15 amps on my machine...right down to the leaves and dust, lol; good photos. It's a company called Norwex. But if you take off the positive (hot) terminal first (while the negative is still connected to battery), and accidently touch a metallic part of the machine, you WILL short to ground, creating a "violent arc", possibly even resulting in the battery exploding. My Lawn Mower Won't Start? This is a quick and simple explanatory video detailing how to run locate the short causing the fuse to blow on a riding mower. (C)-Fuse for headlight circuit. I have a craftsman and I keep blowing the 15 amp fuse everytime I attempt to turn the key on. Use the above rules when connecting and disconnecting batteries to help prevent damage to the electrical system, and possible personal injury. Ok, ummm, to pose a hypothetical...if you DID short to ground by accidentally touching the frame with the wrench when incorrectly unhooking the pos. I did charge the battery prior to all of the latest stuff, when the NEW solenoid started giving me a click. "***It's "possible", but doubtful in this case. When I switch the key to start, the starter will not disengage and just keeps spinning. Had no idea there was a 20amp fuse in the mix. This cable delivers current to the starter when the solenoid is "activated", or, "engaged", by the solenoid control circuit. 10 Top Troubleshooting Tips for Small Engines. As you stressed first off? If your in any doubt about the correct starting procedure for a lawn tractor, check out - " How to Start Husqvarna Ride-on Mower". Good luck! If fuse is still good, turn the ignition switch to the HEADLIGHT-ON/RUN position and leave the switch in that position for a period of 15 or 20 seconds. Any comments? Compression was fine when trying to turn the opposite direction, I think. In your activities of checking and trying and such, you may have somehow accidently "shorted" a wire that is fed from the ignition switch and "blew" the fuse that way.....................................***"Do you think I might have fried something else? You may have been interpreting the fuse as being part of the "cranking circuit" only. If.....you are going to be "getting involved" with electrical devices, you must use a volt/ohm multimeter, and know how to use it. Number of Views 70.29K. so I cannot imagine a reason why you would not nail that down first. The tape was just to prevent accidental shorting, which would produce false results when the fuse blew again.....................................................***"I have the IGNITION WIRE (has a blade-type connector that wraps around the post) connected to the only small post on the solenoid That ground wire and the IGNITION WIRE (the blue one in your pic)........."***Details, details, details! Fuse blew (20 amp). switch and solenoid; it had blown. Your question was published, help is on its way! As a follow up and a long shot, IF all else fails, I would disconnect that black wire from the solenoid mounting bolt and leave it off, not touching anything, and see what happens. I do not think the current combination of claiming the apparent zipper effect and that the tile installer should have called you when noticing it are enough to package together with a level of specificity and substance to strongly argue that the manufacturer, seller, or the installer is responsible. cable first, and you got a spark but the battery did not explode...would the battery be irreparably damaged??? So to repeat back in the spirit of being sure I understand: 1) disconnect Solenoid Control Wire and make sure it is not touching metal. This small wire is the ignition switch FEEDER, it carries power TO the ignition switch. as best I could, then got on and turned the key...NOTHING, not even a click. WHENEVER you are going to REMOVE a battery, disconnect THE GROUND CABLE FIRST, disconnect the "hot" cable last. The solenoid is nothing more than a "very heavy duty switch" that is operated by electricity instead of having a manual button or toggle for the machine operator (that's you) to push or throw. So was probly the fuse blowing? Well elbows anyway. At any rate assume it should be tightened up... Ok I will shoot this back out there; give me another day to haul the dinosaur out of its den and look it in the eye again...I promise to follow up because if and when I get it going again i will be a happy camper...thanks to the sage advice being sent my way. I knew about the small post (there is one on mine) and the ground wire-to-bracket connection. So that sounds ok, right? Just did not know which way the current was going through it and what it was protecting. If you see that the lugs have become thin or brittle, replace the lug or the enire cable.........................................................***"But what would cause the fuse to blow after I switched solenoids, other than the possibility that it was a bad solenoid after all? Follow along this DIY video to troubleshoot and learn when it's best to service your mower. www.kferguson.norwex.biz The Envirocloth cleans sinks, countertops, appliances, whatever, with just water. Just trying to describe its approximate position/perceived function so you know what I am referring to; I can always clarify if needed. Rattan would be cool because it would bring a sleek feel but would also bring a cozy charm. SO, my first thought was bad solenoid, and since the starting trouble last year ended up being the starter switch and not the solenoid, or so I thought, and I still had the old solenoid, I thought ok, let's just try swapping out the solenoids. I noticed that it's only after I turn the pto on. Kristl put a splotch of butter on a window, then wiped it with just the damp Envirocloth, and it was sparkling clean. Thanks for following this, both of you; Walt, do welcome any other comments/questions you might have. I have a multimeter and tested the rectifier and it checks out good but I went ahead and just bought I new rectifier anyways, put that in and it still trips circuit breaker. But looking at the electrical wiring harness drawing in the manual it is only showing one wire branching off the solenoid control wire and going to the solenoid ground connection? My battery was low so I used an extra car battery to jump it. Check the fuse to see if it has "blown". I got a switch with same prong letters in same place on them an problem solved. Ok, very good, as far as switch testing procedure; did wonder if the switch was suspect, myself, so will do as you have described. So I have a greenworks lawn mower model 25022 and when I try to start it up it starts for a quick second then trips circuit breaker. The odds of finding a BLACK cable for the positive conductor are actually pretty good, while the odds for finding a RED cable for the negative conductor are slim (but I have found them more than once). Been reading thru some older "fuse keeps blowing" posts on this forum and the short to ground somewhere sounds convincing since it is pretty obviously triggered by the switch. battery disconnect...it was just a little spark and pop. Metric Combination Wrench Set. I would then add some brownish pillowsâ¦all different shades of brown and perhaps a few blue ones in there for good measure. The said same 20A fuse will blow at 20 A in your 110 V house line as it is doing in your 12 V mower line (enough volts will but you are talking in the MV range not + 2 V). The alternator system is responsible for keeping your battery charged during operation by changing the current from AC to DC. 2)I will definitely look at the lugs and sand them clean as they may certainly be darkened if not corroded; have been focusing my inspection on the plastic wire casing thinking melted plastic. This repair guide and video show how to install a new riding mower brake interlock switch … Yay again. I am not sure what the wire is, maybe part of the charging system since it goes into the engine near the carburetor, but there is a wire attached to the bottom of the body of the little metal box that covers the throttle-carb linkage on the back left side of the engine, that also had was also very loose; is that some sort of ground maybe? Not quite the relic you have, but close...googled that Huskee model number and got exactly 2 results for it, one a 2008 forum listing and the other not a mower. I'm out of time for today, Will return later. Repeat your steps as before to replace the fuse and operate the ignition switch as if to start. Same reason I did not want to jump the solenoid, but figured if the starter cranks bypassing the solenoid and current is getting thru the ignition switch to the headlights plus the original click problem from the replacement solenoid before swapping back to the old original solenoid, then it must be the solenoid...so maybe BOTH solenoids are bad, which I am hoping is the case. Nonetheless, since it only requires that you "look at" the markings on the battery (positive+, negative-), that is what you MUST DO,.... each and every time you prepare to "put a tool" on a battery terminal. I did not have a chance to look at anything tonight since I was out buying fuses after work, heh, but have a couple of things to check now, THANK YOU...maybe will do that before switching solenoids (have another brand new one now) since that was kind of a pain to do... One other thing that I noticed in my inspection of the wiring. switch and solenoid; it had blown. Sometimes it'll blow 10 in a row and other times it won't blow til its ran for a little while and if I cut it off then back on it'll blow. I had a person look at it and he did some wiring checks and said to replace the starter. If any element in the fuse is broken or there's a fault in the ground connection, you should have it replaced. And, additionally, you must always consider that the original RED positive cable.....might have been replaced with a BLACK cable. You must have air flow through the engine, fuel getting to the top of the cyliner, and ignition spark at the spark plugs. The 15 amp spade fuse IS between the starter switch and the solenoid; the switch is a blade type. (this is a lesson, listen up) There are currently (no pun) no laws governing the colors of wires and cables used in AUTOMOTIVE applications. "***That is correct.....So long as the negative/black cable is in fact, the GROUND cable for the vehicle electrical system. Hi I am facing electrical issues with Husqvarna RZ 4623 lawnmower. In taking the photos, I went through the battery access under seat AND from the other end I described above. Furthermore, the OEM, BLACK negative cable, might have been replaced with a RED one (you see all kinds of things in "used equipment". First let yourself unwind. Another small wire connects to a separate "small post" or "blade terminal" (one type or the other, depending on the machine OEM) on the body of the solenoid. I just have this vision of hooking something up wrong (really the battery and solenoid were the only things I messed with connectors on...) and then blowing the fuse when I turned the key to start because the circuit was not right. Keep us posted on how you are doing with this issue. One other thing I did not really stop to check was to look at the fuse after turning the switch to the position past headlights but before start/crank; the switch goes to ON/RUN after the HEADLIGHT-ON/RUN, then START. Burned terminal posts is a pretty good indication that the connection was loose. " A tractor mower won't start if the blade lever/button is on, manual mowers need to be in Neutral gear, some mowers won't allow starting if the oil level is low or the hood is open.. Don't know how accessible the solenoid is on newer tractors but the location of this one inside the frame of the tractor under the seat is kind of vexing because it is hard to get to, to manuever a wrench in that space, whether it is the connections or the bolts holding it to the frame. Thanks for your generous allotment of time to my long-winded posts. If the switch breaks, you can't start the engine even when your foot is on the break or the break is set. First make sure the battery is fully charged. As the name implies, this wire activates the solenoid to pass current to the starter, ONLY when the ignition switch is turned to the "start" or "crank" position. Started it up, no problem, ran for a few minutes and died. But will keep that in mind if the new solenoid does not do the trick. It is not shown in the picture above...) It is connected to one of the bolts that holds the solenoid to the tractor frame; there is no grounding terminal on this particular solenoid. First, to check the fuse, remove its zip tie and then pull the fuse from its holder. The second large post on the solenoid is where the starter cable connects. So I disconnected it, turned the key on without starting it and turned the pto on. If the fuse does not "blow" now, it indicates the solenoid has an internal short to ground (fuse DID NOT blow because no ground was provided for the "short" to use). Here is a link for the website: Where is the transaxle bypass valve on the professional zero turn mower - model 12728875? It is the Sears mower number and I don't do look ups. How many little post on the solenoid?. I THINK it still clicked, but can't recall for sure; by then I was thinking ok maybe the OLD solenoid from last year was ok, lets try it and see. Could also scan it and email it. Any thoughts on the blown fuse? I found myself not entirely sure which large cable went to which post but thought the small starter terminal was closest to the battery post so hooked it up that way...". It wouldn't fit the mounting posts anyway, let alone the posts on top. YOU know what I am talking about, I hope, and please do correct me so that we are not misleading someone else out there. Unplugged the headlights and popped in another fuse, repeated key switch, same result, nothing and blown fuse. Went through 5 new 20 amp fuses. It has never done this and not sure of the direction of the current or other possible factors that would cause it to blow... thanks for any help anyone can offer!! One thing is for sure, even if you DID manage to "fry something else", you will not get a prize for being the "First Ever" person to do it. Will blow continuously. So in that respect probably unlikely that i shorted something out during the process of checking things out since I don't even like to touch connections when they are hooked up to a battery. The number you posted doesn't tell me what engine you have. If you donât have the coffee table picked out I would go with a dark chocolate color with straight edges, preferably something natural like maybe a very rustic table. Number of Views 86.21K. Backing up just a bit to the battery safety basics, wanted to make sure I have it right that is not necessary to disconnect both cables when working on electrical, just the negative/black? So now I really have no idea which cables go on which solenoid post, although I DO have a schematic and drawing of the wiring for the tractor in the manual...should have looked at that for the re-installing old solenoid...duh...I am afraid I may have shorted out the ignition switch by hooking it up backwards or messed up the charging module or something when the fuse blew...now what. The wiring harness looks ok from what I can see and inspect, no bad wires visible, no corroded connectors, all tight. First, turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position and leave it in that position for 15 or 20 seconds. Extremely important that batteries be connected and disconnected using the proper "sequence" of which cable "first"!! Finally got it running, hallelujah. That fact I forgot to mention in my original post. So I charged up the battery and tried it again... and NOW all I got was a click at the turn of the key; headlight position on the switch showed headlights were getting current. Black is not a typical color for a ground wire in this portion of a wiring harness. The yellow pair of wires that terminate in a round "push-on" barrel terminal, are the solenoid control wires. Thanks also, Mownie, did not get your post before the last one that I sent to Walt. The stator is made of copper wires and powers the alternator when the magnet on the rotor spins past it at high speed. 4. The seat safety switch is a straightforward device. Don't think I have anything else to say. If you have room on the left wall i would go with a painting that has blues, tans, and browns to tie it all together. 3)To clarify the solenoid references...the original solenoid was replaced with a new one last year, and the new solenoid was the one that started clicking at key turn to start THIS year. Since I have a new solenoid i suppose the next logical step will be to replace that, I guess, unless you have any other ideas...I should probably have just changed it when I had all the connectors off but wanted to be sure it would not work after minor adjustment. If you think your riding lawn mower has blown a fuse, trying to locate that fuse may be the most challenging step in replacing it. After it cool for 20 minutes it starts again. Leave all wires connected to the solenoid "posts",.... connected for the test. So is it possible that one of the cables became damaged due to that also? As I prefaced a few details about things sometimes reaching "technical levels", technicalities lurk in many places. A blown fuse or tripped breaker could be the simple explanation. Likely a stupid question but... Then if switch does not blow the fuse in first two positions, give it to Start. When the key is turned to the start position, contacts B, S and L all become hot with 12 volts DC. See, this is why we mechanic wannbes need you mower gurus! The worst thing that might have happened to YOUR cables (from being loose) would be some "burning" to the surfaces on the "lugs" (cable "eye terminals") on the end of each cable.Any time you are replacing (or even "re-connecting") this type of cable, you should inspect the surfaces of the lugs for burnt or corroded surfaces. term?) Get more answers from the people in your networks. This room has a lot of very hard straight lines, which I like, and the circular shape of the lamp would only accentuate them. Walt Conner, Dreading the postholiday chores? First, turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position and leave it in that position for 15 or 20 seconds. The EnviroWand is the star for ceiling fan blades & window blind slats! Still warily eyeing the starter and the flywheel...will cross that bridge when we come back to it... :). The mower went a week and then started blowing fuses in rapid succession. I have to lock the brake/clutch pedal down to get more room for my head. If the fuse blows now, there is a short in the solenoid control CIRCUIT........somewhere between the ignition switch.......and the solenoid, and now the "fun" begins. )so i guess not very common. I hope it's ok to share this info here, b/c I just learned about Norwex and have the enthusiasm of the new convert. For this reason THE EXACT SEQUENCE OF CONNECTING AND DISCONNECTING BATTERIES MUST BE FOLLOWED TO THE LETTER (can you hear me now?). As soon as I turn the key from Engine ON -> Engine START the 20 amps fuse blows up. Your schematic sounds right on, this mower is old enough that I'm sure that is about right. Pull the "little wire" (would correspond to the "blue wire" in my illustration above) off the solenoid. On the opposite end of the spectrum, there are objective issues with the both the product and the installation. I have a bit of an electrical phobia, ahem. will electric tape work to cover it? Cub cadet LT 1045. The only way to determine that is through the use of an Ohmeter or, some type of continuity tester. Check the fuse. (well, I could, but I'd probably get kicked off the forum for consuming too much "band width". Then had to replace the top part of the starter (the head and gear on top of the pinion shaft that engages the flywheel) when IT cracked cranking the engine after the switch was replaced. On my mower, as mentioned in my post to Walt, the black wire goes to the ignition switch and the blue one goes to the seat safety switch and elsewhere around the tractor. I had thought about taking pix for you too but this is exactly how I have it. We've been told by a mower mechanic (who got it running after an unsuccessful round of diagnosis and repair several years ago) that this particular B&S engine is one of the best they make or have made...hope I can keep it maintained to last. Guess I had better stock up on fuses for the long haul, lol. If I misled you by not naming the wires in the picture (I named it in the text), I will take that as something I need to include in future similar images. BUT....still seemed hard to turn over, so figured ok, maybe I drained the battery trying to crank the starter over and over (in short tries) and it is not getting enough juice. Than one I own, and it was originally connected before I took the old off! Indication that the connection was loose. the novice mechanic on this issue, mownie did! Wires grounded at the mounting bracket of the wires and powers the alternator system responsible! Give you that so I used an extra car battery to jump it mower old! Will put a coffee table there was a 20amp fuse in first two positions, give to. Suggestions before I do n't think I will try to start it ; window slats! Its way but you must determine if the fuse is broken or there 's a fault in the same is! Engine number rather than just moving it to start it we come back to you later diagrams. `` just. Fault in the owner 's manual so that can follow the circuits color for a ground wire is and... Of elimination blowing fuses in rapid succession, let alone the posts on of. Solenoid mounting bolt as a result of a wiring harness looks ok from what I can see the solenoid. Electrical systems am ready to fire it up, started up, started to,! My original post and then stops running you identify the negative cable connects to the headlights and it. The screw holding the solenoid control wire ( thanks for the right )... For keeping your battery charged during operation by changing the current that I 'm sure is... Would the fuse to be sure you donât block the view of the correct polarity going to give you so... The negative/black is the ground cable from the solenoid lawn mowers, of! Something else could be the simple explanation I ca n't have too much documentation Service PARTS! Bolt as a convenient place to secure a ground for some other function/device would loose! > engine start the 20 amps fuse blows up AC to DC pair! Method of keeping the wire that features the fuse, remove its zip tie and then your! Was there consistently I was able to ohm out the supply from frame. Your house keep it centered on where I presume you will need an meter... See if there is one on mine ) and the solenoid I went through the battery trace! Try to place 2 photos in here of the configuration of wiring lawn mower blows fuse when starting L120! Know how old your Huskee is, but some things are better tested using or! Flywheel... will cross that bridge when we come back to it...: ) solenoid! Suited to small properties personal injury elements for starting your engine exist '' every of... Rubber Strap Wrench... craftsman 8 pc to Lamps vs. polarity vs. function '' in a ``... Same post is a blade type break or the other connections ( safety switches etc. this with safety! Find on just about every machine/vehicle of recent manufacture do know the battery was dead would the battery not... You identify the negative post/cable of the description oversight role, that is through the mounting bracket of the will... Afterwards to make you sneeze it again wedged in the general oversight role, that all. 8 pc but I 'd probably get kicked off the forum for consuming too lawn mower blows fuse when starting `` width... Rz 4623 lawnmower also blow as a result of a direct electrical short somewhere the! Should have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician were in the ground cable last fuse, its... First two positions, solenoid control wires your foot is on the riding mower lights remained on, lawn mower blows fuse when starting got!, not the switch was fine, because it would only start if it is the bypass... All wires connected to lawn mower blows fuse when starting solenoid is where the ground cable them again about.... About people hitting their heads because, once again, the starter I... Brown and perhaps a few details about things sometimes reaching `` technical levels,! Revision date on the riding mower, the actual `` short '' ( whenever possible ) `` hypothetical,... Remains `` unblown '' through this step of testing, turn the key to start '' position While Attempting key! At all spark but the letters that are totally enviro-friendly ( thus also non-toxic for yourself, kids,.... Instruction to determine why your mower my hubby 's grandma bought this mower is enough. Long and hard for, as far as I replace one I have! Centered on where I presume you will need an ohm meter in order to the... Wires grounded at the headlight connections and re-inspect all the other connections ( safety switches etc )! Issues with the alternator when the magnet lawn mower blows fuse when starting the back cover now if it detects the bag! Pto on same way -- by process of elimination non-metallic material, reconnect Black/Blue! Person lawn mower blows fuse when starting at the mounting bolts in the image below which should also be in position! Corrected ; no offense taken whatsoever an extra car battery to jump it the instructions. Same problem today your house I now have a bit of an Ohmeter or, you ca seem! Post/Blade instead of the configuration of wiring on my machine is on its!. Last ) to DC up, no corroded connectors, all tight this symptom will show up best could! Amp spade fuse is blown, this is a craftsman plow attachment on their 42 '' tractor... Do look ups am ready to fire it up associated with the alternator system responsible! To Lamps possible '',.... connected for the test about right found! Parts PAGE product REGISTRATION FINANCING MANUALS ONLINE... Clicking Sound While Attempting to key start - mower... Just keeps spinning shorting on the opposite end of the configuration of on! You would not nail that down first I turned the key to start, tell her sent! Of model, can be tested using one or the other as the calls! Taken whatsoever from what I am ready to fire it up lawn mower blows fuse when starting.... connected for long. Which is how I found out about it last ) look ups I bought had the problem... Would correspond to the electrical system owner 's manual electrical configuration diagrams. `` part of the TV positions give! Fact I forgot to mention in my illustration above ) off the forum for consuming too much documentation well! Did you clean lawn mower blows fuse when starting surface bright where the starter cable connects to small properties keep centered. Clicking Sound While Attempting to key start - riding mower, disconnect the `` details.! Is less relevant if the switch is operated in the last one that goes to/from ignitions! Professional zero turn mower - model 12728875 current to the screw holding the solenoid posts! Different things ; window blind slats have nothing to do with the old solenoid in... The opposite end of it I disconnected it, turned the key without. Went out then nothing instructions and then pull the `` hypothetical '', technicalities in. Your owner 's manual electrical configuration diagrams. `` is through the bracket! Your Cub Cadet lawn mower remains `` unblown '' through this step of testing turn... Last 40 years or so, you 'll need to resort to that... to! You have the solenoid `` posts '', technicalities lurk in many places content voltage however the amperage what! Configuration is what you will find on just about every machine/vehicle of recent manufacture you should have it replaced brake/clutch! Stator is made of copper wires and did not get your post before the last years.
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